Also known as Makassar, Ujung Pandang is the largest city in Sulawesi—an exotic orchid-shaped island to the east in the Indonesian archipelago. Despite having a population of over 1.5 million, Indonesia's fifth-largest city has a certain mellow feel to it, especially closer to Ujung Pandang's waterfront. And the city's compactness makes it easy to experience the highlights over the course of a single day. Kick things off with a visit to Fort Rotterdam, one of the best-preserved examples of Dutch architecture in Indonesia. It's worth dragging yourself to the top of the solid ramparts for views that take in the town and sweeping harbor. You can admire traditional phinisis—seagoing Buginese boats with distinctive high prows—at the harbor at Pelabuhan Paotere. And even a meal can be reason enough to step ashore here, as there are some truly excellent seafood restaurants in Ujung Pandang. Scout menus for local specialties such as boxfish, grilled milkfish and crabs. And make time for a traditional Makassar dessert, too. A South Sulawesi specialty available all over town, es pisang ijo is an iced green banana dessert eaten with crushed ice and coconut syrup that must be tasted to be believed.
